REMEMBER ME: ONE STRAND AT A TIME
by Sarabeth Samoray,
Gull Cottage Antiques, Pt. Sanilac

The sentimental Victorians had love in their hearts when they combined the hair of a loved one (living or deceased) with gold clasps, tiny beads and glass. The making of jewelry from human hair was both a home hobby (much as needlepoint or cross-stitch is today) and an art form.

Some might find the thought of wearing earrings (called "ear-bobs" in the 1800s) or a bracelet of human hair a bit disconcerting, but in the Victorian era this craft was a completely natural way to express affection and keep memories alive forever.

You name it, it was woven from hair: broaches, necklaces, rings, lockets, watch-chains, pendants and of course flowers. I must now stress that these items were by no means always woven from the hair of the "dear departed"! Though often regarded today as "mourning jewelry" it is believed that about 60 percent of the items were made as tokens of affection between family and friends who were indeed alive and well.

I had the good fortune to study this lost art several years ago under the instruction of a darling old man, Philemon Frisbee. Mr. Frisbee had the most extraordinary collection of jewelry and floral wreaths I had ever seen. Many of his pieces were inherited from his great-aunt who offered him some lessons in the craft. The remainder of his expertise was self-taught as he studied each piece in his collection to decipher how each was made. Let me say this is not a craft for the hurried or clumsy. My time spent with my tutor was very taxing but oh so interesting. I treasure my tiny bouquet made under Mr. Frisbee's supervision and look forward to making another one day soon with strands of my granddaughter's hair.

Who hasn't saved a little lock of their child's hair, tied ever so sweetly with a small piece of ribbon? While visiting the museum at Fort Ticonderoga in upstate New York, I was amazed to find the hair of George and Martha Washington, each bound with a little satin ribbon and lain behind the glass of a locket. I was told that George never went into battle without the lock of Martha's hair tucked close to his heart.

Young friends as well as lovers and family members exchanged locks of hair in Victorian times. I have found friendship books with each page devoted to a different friend or relative containing the name, a sweet poem or autograph and a small lock of their hair. The hair could be coiled, braided or simply tied in a little bundle. Tiny strips of writing paper were used to overlap each lock and secure it to the page. Some pages held multiple strands - the soft golden hair of youth and the addition, years later, of some gray strands as the same friend aged or was perhaps near death.

Hair was worked into jewelry a few strands at a time on a special little circular worktable that clamped onto a sewing or parlor table. Tiny weights were attached to each few strands to weight the flyaway hair down and prevent tangling. The boiled clean hair was twisted, braided and manipulated into the desired pattern. Gold or gold-plated clasps, wires or beads (called "findings") were added to hold all together and finish off the design. An engaged couple frequently exchanged locks of hair that were made into rings or placed within a locket. Before the ready availability of portrait photography a deceased relative's memory could be kept alive through a keepsake made of their hair. When a photo was not possible one had only to gaze at a braided strand of hair in a locket to "remember".

Wives fashioned watch chains for their husbands going off to fight in the Civil War. Hair could also be curled with a mustache curling iron and placed within the back of a loved one's watch cover. Self-instruction manuals and fashion magazines of the day contained new designs in every issue. Godey's magazine stressed the importance of working with scrupulously clean hair and cautioned: "Hair plaiting is easy, but cannot be done without care and attention."

Wealthier ladies could send a lock of hair off to one of many shops in New York and have an item made for them - for a fee. These companies advertised in all the women's magazines. Catalogs containing hundreds of styles, patterns and findings were readily available. A woman could also choose to have an item made from "catalog hair" - hair purchased by companies from the poor - or even horsehair.

Hair was also combined with pearls and tiny beads to add glimmer, and made into elaborate framed floral displays known as "hair wreaths". The wreaths were constructed a little differently than the jewelry. Flowers were made freehand - without the use of a worktable. Two to three strands of hair and a fine wire were wound around slightly thicker, less pliable wires. After twisting, bending and braiding the roses, daises, sheaves of wheat, corn patterns, plumes and leaves were slipped off the stiff wire and the stems secured with dark floral paper. Eventually the pieces were bundled together and formed into a wreath shape. The horseshoe shape was a favorite with the opening in the horseshoe at the top to keep the "good luck" from falling out. The more interesting wreaths combined beadwork with many different colors of locks interspersed around the finished piece. All was framed inside a shadowbox-type frame or mounded artistically under a glass dome.

Hair work of all types is becoming quite scarce. Large wreaths sell from $350 up. Jewelry ranges from $100 for a small brooch or earrings to $900 for a necklace. Condition is everything. Hair work is subject to stress near the findings and is often found with broken strands. The findings of gold add considerably to the value, more so than gold plated clasps. Of course, the intricacy of the work is of the utmost importance when evaluating the piece.

Hair work should not seem morbid to you! Today mothers and grandmothers around the world still snip a child's first curl and place them lovingly into baby books. A lock of hair has been, and will always be, an easy way to say "Remember Me". There is nothing morbid about that sentiment as none of us wants to be forgotten.

Gull Cottage Antiques is located four miles south of Port Sanilac. Open seasonally April - October; Sat - Sun, 10 AM to 5 PM. Weekdays by appointment or chance.