SIGHTSEERS
Destination: Shanghai, The Paris Of The East
by Randy Karr

It's hard for visitors not to be amazed by Shanghai, the most ideologically, economically and socially open city in the People's Republic of China.

Bordering the East China Sea and located on the Huangpu River, Shanghai is one of the world's largest seaports and China's chief commercial and financial center.

On one side of Shanghai's famous waterfront is the Bund, once the historic and economic center of international settlements. Here, rows of 20th Century buildings and peaceful parks once made this riverside boulevard, along the Huangpu River, the economic heart of old Shanghai.

Now, Shanghai's new economic heart is across the river in Pudong New Area. Pudong is a tax-free foreign trade and hi-tech zone that is headquarters for dozens of foreign corporations and China's emerging stock market.

From the Bund, Shanghai's most famous mile, I watched ships ply the Huangpu River and street performers and peddlers hawk their wares. It was here that I met Gao Dao, my Shanghai tour guide.

As we walked along the promenade, paralleling the Bund, Gao pointed across the river to the Pudong New Area. This developing financial district is being built on marshland, land that only 15 years ago sprawled with pig farms and fields.

Extending from the Bund to the East China Sea, Pudong is the economic engine that is turning China into the fastest growing economy in the world. Its most visible landmark is the 1,535-foot high Oriental Pearl Tower, a bizarrely shaped structure, construced on a tripod, with 11 glass modules.

Built as a TV tower, it is the highest tower in Asia and the third highest tower in the world. Only the 1,815-foot tall CN Tower in Toronto, and the 1,771-foot tall Ostankino Tower in Moscow, surpasses it.

Gao then pointed to the 1,380-foot tall Jinmao Tower, China's tallest building and the fourth tallest building in the world. He explained that this building was designed around the architectural themes of a Chinese, tiered pagoda and the number eight. To the Chinese, the number eight is a lucky number that means "to make a great fortune in the near future."

From its 88th floor, visitors can gaze down at spectacular cityscapes, buy souvenirs and even send postcards home, using stamps purchased at the world's highest post office.

The Grand Hyatt, the world's highest above ground level hotel, is located on Jinmao Tower's upper most floors. The Hyatt claims various other superlatives-the highest bubble bath, gym, mini bar and the world's longest laundry chute.

Gao explained that the Shanghai story is not just about economic growth, but also about social change. "Today, films are all about entertainment, not promotional propaganda. Talk shows now broadcast topics once considered taboo for public discussion. Karaoke and country western bars draw in pedestrians. Dancing, once banned during the Cultural Revolution, is now a favorite social activity, despite the fact that those between 40 and 50 years old never learned to dance.

"These days most young people scorn socialism," Gao said. "Now, they revere money, motorbikes, fashion, democracy and rock music, but not necessarily in that order."

Before meeting Gao, I imagined China to be a country where everyone would be friendly, yet reluctant to critique the government or life in China. What I found were people eager to talk about concerns they face daily. Gao, for example, candidly acknowledged problems encountered daily in Shanghai.

"We have three problems in Shanghai-traffic, housing, pollution, all related to too many people. Population is a big problem in China. Thanks to Mao's policies, there are way too many people in China."

Mao Zedong, considered the father of the People's Republic of China, promoted population growth, believing that large populations made nations strong. Mao often said, "Every mouth comes with two hands attached."

Under Mao's leadership, China's population doubled, but its social problems quadrupled. The jobless became armies of unemployed and food shortages forecasted mass famine. Unwanted babies, mostly girls living in government orphanages, faced bleak lives.

After Mao died in 1976, population control became the preoccupation of Chinese leaders. In 1973, China lowered population growth with a draconian policy of allowing only one child per family. Laws set the legal minimum age for marriage at 22, for a man, and 20, for a woman. If an individual delayed marriage until the age of 25, then that person would be rewarded with additional benefits.

Slogans plastered on billboards encouraged birth control and a one-child family. Gao showed me a sign near the Shanghai Acrobatics Theater. "Longer, Later, Fewer", he translated. "Means single longer, marry later, and have one child."

Couples who signed a one-child pledge were offered an extra month's salary, a larger government assigned apartment, or a double-sized farm plot. Cooperative farms, called "Fewer Births, Greater Prosperity Cooperatives" gave interest free loans, cheaper fertilizer, and retirement funds to those in compliance. If a woman had an abortion, she would receive a vacation with pay. Those who failed the one-child-per-family pledge faced the loss of privileges, demotions at work, even loss of job.

Gao proved to be the consummate tour guide. His commentary and historic asides brought to life Shanghai's cultural charms and its social and economic challenges. However, what really made him exceptionally memorable occurred later that day, while having lunch at the famous Peace Hotel.

This hotel, built by Victor Sassoon as the Cathay, was once the most opulent hotel in East Asia. The guest list included George Bernard Shaw, Noel Coward and Charlie Chaplin. It was here than Gao revealed to me what his life was like growing up in Communist China.

I asked Dao, "Did you ever sign a paper agreeing to have only one child?" He replied, "Well, that is long story."

To be continued. Next month, Gao relates a captivating story about the consequences of his refusal to sign the "one couple, one child pledge."

© 2006 Randy Karr