VICTORIAN EMBROIDERED BOOKMARKS
by Sarabeth Samoray
Gull Cottage Antiques - Applegate, MI

I first became interested in embroidered bookmarks when I found one tucked inside an old Bible. Though it resembled needlepoint, I was intrigued when I discovered it was actually embroidery on paper - perforated paper! The bookmark sported a charming short verse: "Walk With God". The simplicity and style was unusual and beautiful - the shaded colors of the thread extraordinary. It was neatly stitched around the edges atop a pale pink silk ribbon. I was hooked!

Known today by a variety of names: "punched paper" or "motto-sampler", this art form was originally called "perforated card-work" or "Berlin work", the first-ever printed pattern needlework. Originating in Berlin, Germany, around the mid-1840s most of the patterns were copies of wool-work items and since the paper was more affordable than linen, the patterns were suddenly affordable for all women. This craft quickly spread to America. The earliest examples are the little bookmarks, but larger framed mottoes became the rage between 1870 and 1880. By the 1890s the fad began to fade, although there was a small resurgence from 1930 to 1940.

The crafter went to the general store and found all the supplies she needed: perforated card stock, a variety of sized needles, floss, patterns and ribbons. There were dozens to choose from. The mottoes were generally machine printed onto the cardstock though blanks could be purchased and many of the popular women's magazines featured patterns to copy at home. The floss was pre-dyed in a manner that produced a variegation of color throughout the strands from light to dark to light again.

There were a variety of additions to apply to the bookmarks, too. Little paper scrap pictures were easily found at the general store or cut from cards. Glass beads and thin-coiled wire known as bullion made of brass, gold or silver were also popular. Occasionally, human hair was added from a deceased loved one along with a small photo to memorialize them. It was common for young girls to exchange bookmarks containing tiny braids of their hair as a symbol of their deep friendship for one another.

Little bookmark patterns were available for pennies at the store as early as 1840 and pre-printed bookmark patterns by 1860. Silk ribbon was common and depending upon the color may not have survived the years. Navy and black silk contained tin in the dye, which ultimately rubbed right through the fabric creating severe deterioration. Some ribbons bore extra embroidery, adding to the overall beauty and workmanship. The early ribbons of the 1840-50 era were wide and elaborate and of very high quality. Later ribbons were narrower and more varied. The verses seem to have always been executed in simple cross-stitch, occasionally a long-stitch and some were embellished with an embroidered cross, anchor or flowers.

As for accurate dating of the bookmarks, that is a difficult task! The crafter did not date most of her work. The number of perforations per inch of the cardstock varied over the years so using this as a guide is not accurate. Some sellers will tell you the more holes per inch the older the piece, but that is not true! There does not seem to have been a standard size since it was made by a variety of manufacturers and, according to old catalogs in museum collections, was always available in various sizes ranging from 10 to 28 holes per inch.

So how do you date a piece? Look for smoother and lighter colored paper on the older examples. The older paper was manufactured to a higher standard. Some verses can help to date a piece such as "Home Sweet Home" which soared to popularity around 1860. Acquire knowledge of old ribbon weights, patterns and overall appearance and consult with an antiques dealer who is knowledgeable in this area of collecting.

As with all antiques, value depends upon condition. Expect to pay $3 to $40 each. Prices are always higher on higher quality, clean ribbons. The content of the verse has a lot of bearing upon value as well. "Holy Bible", "Faith - Hope - Charity" are common verses, easy to find. Some of the more rare examples are "To My Dear Sister", "Love the Giver", "Forget-Me-Not" and "Remember Me," "To My Dear Papa" or those containing love sentiments, names, animals or human hair. Look for missing threads due to moth damage, chipped or broken edges, badly stained and decomposed ribbon or ribbon missing altogether.

Restoration of these pieces can be done but should be avoided. Missing threads are very hard to color-match, tears can be edge-glued back together but is tricky to do. Some stains can be removed from the perforated paper by rinsing but this is best left to an expert as it is common for the dyes in the embroidery to run. If framing your treasured find, have your framer place a spacer between the glass and the bookmark and always have the bookmark mounted on acid-free archival board. I like to remember that flaws are a part of the history of each piece and should be appreciated as part of the item's story.

So, the next time you open great-grandma's treasured bible or book of poetry, carefully flip through the pages and don't be too surprised if a darling needlecraft bookmark appears! Frame it and treasure it forever.

Gull Cottage Antiques is located at 2096 S. Lakeshore Rd., Applegate, and is open mid-April through October. For more information, call 810-622-9883.